Tag Archives: Kanazawa

The Start of a 3 Week Adventure

Day 1 – on our way to Shodoshima

We hopped on the local train heading for Kanazawa station.

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From there we jumped onto the Thunderbird express bound for Kyoto Station

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Then onto the Bullet train/Shinkansen for Okayama Station

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We hopped on a bus that took about 30 minutes to get from Okayama station to Shin-Okayama Harbor. By the time we got there, it has already been a long day. I was pretty hungry, so we ordered Chicken Karaage. It costs 600 Yen, which was about $6. To our surprise, it was quite a bit of food, and it was good too. We had to eat quickly, however, since our ferry was leaving soon.

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Then we hopped on a ferry bound for Shodoshima!

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We walked around the ship for a bit and I found out that the boat was called the “Olympia Dream”. Pretty amusing since the capital of Washington state is Olympia. To come all the way to Japan, in a rather remote part of it as well, to hop on a boat with a name similar to where you are from. Interesting/Omoshiroi.

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Pretty much the best part of the boat was the warm foot bath you could take while enjoying the scenery. I would have partaken, however there was no towel in site, and putting wet feet into dry socked didn’t sound fun at all….

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I did notice however that the water was very calm. There was pretty much no waves, and relatively little wind on the ride. I’m wondering if we picked the perfect day, or if this is the norm.

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Once we arrived, we walked around a bit. The lady at the ferry information desk was extremely helpful. She gave us a few maps and talked to us for quite a while about everything on the island. While my wife wanted to head straight to the hotel, I wanted to walk  around for a bit to get a feel for this place. Looking at the map, it didn’t seem like it would take us very long to walk to “downtown” Tonosho. After a 20-30 minute walk with heavy bags, it became apparently every map on this island is not to scale. Roads that looked short on the map were very long, and roads that were long were very short…. After the 30 minutes of me saying our destination should be right around the corner “based on the map”, I could hear the frustration on my wife’s voice.

At any rate, we made it to the world’s narrowest straight, “Dofuchi Straight”. Who knew it was on Shodoshima… http://www.town.tonosho.kagawa.jp/kanko/tnks/info34.html

According to their website, you could receive a certificate saying you crossed over it at the town hall, but we were in a hurry to get to our hotel before dark, so we skipped the formality.

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We hopped on the local bus, and there was a sign that my wife told me said be careful of this spider… I can’t read Japanese, but that picture looks like a Black Widow. So ya, that is going to haunt me while I sleep… and every time I get an itch I going to swat at it like its a deadly spider…

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We hopped off the local bus in Ikeda. The hotel had a shuttle bus that drove down and picked us up for the rest of the trip to the hotel. We settled into our hotel room, and enjoyed our boxed lunch/dinner/snacks we picked up earlier.

The hotel had a bit of “locally made snacks” the majority of which were olive themed as olives were what the island was known for. My wife wanted to go see what they had and maybe pick out some snacks. There was no restaurant or convenience store near the hotel. It was a bit remote. When my wife bought some snacks, the guy working at the hotel was a little worried that we didn’t have any food for dinner, and that the snacks she bought was going to be our dinner.  So he handed us some free snacks that tasted like rice crispy treats.

It was a pretty long day, so we got some sleep and prepared for the adventures to come.

*an additional thought from the trip, the ferry was pretty empty… there was like 10 people on the boat and 1 car. I bet summer time is much more busy, but I wonder how they can cover the costs of the ferry with so little passengers. I’m curious if the government is helping subsidize any of it.

Dinner in Kanazawa

While staying at the machiya, my wife’s uncle recommended a restaurant that we should try out. He even called and made a reservation for us.

It was a restaurant in Kanazawa called Chokichi which served kushiyaki.

We arrived apparently as soon as they opened.

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We were told to get the chef’s recommendation, so we did. We relaxed a bit while the chef prepared the kitchen. We sat around and noticed some of the other patrons were rather chatty with the chef. It appeared as though maybe they were regulars or knew the chef personally.

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After a short wait, the chef started bringing us plate after plate of delicious food on sticks. Ever since I was little my family always called these types of things shish kebabs. Apparently, its not a term that is really used in Japan. Wiki says shish kebab is a middle eastern term. I wonder if most Americans would call these shish kebabs or if it is just my family… Let me know what you would call them in the comments!

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In America, I usually get foods I like and I tend to stick with them. But being some place pretty foreign to me I thought I should branch out a bit.

A bit of beef tongue. Pretty good actually.

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Some stomach, ok I’ll try… it was a little squishy, crunchy, and fatty at the same time… After 1 bite, I decided to pass.

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We saw some liver coming out and we told the chef no thanks. Maybe I would have tried it if it didn’t follow the stomach.

At this restaurant, the chef continues to bring you more kushiyaki until you say stop. Not really knowing this, we got pretty full.

About mid way through dinner, my wife’s uncle and his wife showed up. We didn’t know they were going to show up,but it was pretty fun. They showed me some more foods I’ve never seen before.  Like this giant bean, which tasted like a giant Edamame, and in the background, ginko nuts/seeds.

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After saying stop, they brought out some soup with a grilled rice ball in it.

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After dinner, we headed to a bar for a couple drinks. At home in Seattle, I usually get a Rum and Coke when I can’t find a menu, or think of anything more exotic. But being in Japan, I thought I should get some sort of Japanese cocktail. We asked the bartender what would a Japanese-ish equivalent be for a Rum and Coke. Like a common Japanese mixed drink. The bartender thought a bit, but couldn’t think of anything. He said in Japan, their main drink is beer and Sake. I’m not a huge fan of beer, and I didn’t feel like Sake at the moment, so I went with a couple drinks I’m familiar with at home.

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The bar was hiding in a small alley, so I’m not sure how people would find it that easily, but it was pretty busy nonetheless.

The second night, I went with my wife’s family to a Korean BBQ place called Midouen.

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It was delicious/oishii as well. They brought out a few plates of raw marinated meats and vegetables on a plate.

You would then pick them up and grill them yourself. I had a bite of shrimp, but mostly played the rest of the night safe with beef and pork.

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Both places were delicious, and I would definitely recommend them.

Traditional Japanese House

We stayed two nights at a traditional Japanese House!

The house was located in the old Kazue-machi district.

From the Kanazawa Tourism site, “Kazue-machi is an old geisha district located along the river between Asanogawa Ohashi Bridge and Naka-no Hashi Bridge”

Walking down a cute/kawaii small alley, we found the house where we were going to stay.

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machiya

http://www.machiya-kanazawa.jp/english/

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Stepping inside there was a small room where you could remove your shoes before entering the house.

Once fully inside, the first thing I noticed was that back in the day, Japanese people were short… I had to duck when moving from room to room since the ceiling was low. I don’t consider myself super tall either, I’m about 6’/182cm.

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The kitchen was pretty nice, and clean. Everything was labeled in Japanese and English. I would assume they must get quite a few English-speaking guests.

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The bathroom was extremely nice. The sink/toilet/bathroom were all sparkly, as if they were new. I can’t imagine the toilet with its 20 different buttons was very common in the old days, but honestly there are some old-time experiences I don’t feel the need to have. The bathroom being one of them.

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No house would be complete without B-chan. The house goldfish, just don’t feed him. I wonder what happens if you did feed him….

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I’d like to think that if you did feed him, he would grow to be an enormous giant monster/Kaiju where he would fight in a battle with Godzilla in an attempt to destroy the Earth. But being a good citizen however, I’ll do my part to protect the earth, and let poor B-chan starve.

Previous image from Wiki

We had a little garden to look at through the window. It was nice and pretty relaxing for the brief time I was looking.

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While this was mostly decorative, the houses from long ago sometimes came with a tea room, where you would have guests and have a formal tea ceremony.

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The floors are made of weaved rice straw/tatami and are pretty comfortable to walk on. I wonder if tatami floors are very delicate, because everywhere we’ve been that have tatami we have had to put our luggage in special areas where the tatami is covered up and we can’t roll bags on it etc.

This would be a place where a geisha could come and entertain with music and dancing.

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We setup Futons to sleep on. In one of the closets, there was thick Futon pads that we opened up on the floor, along with sheets, and a comforter.

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Early the next morning, the lady that checked us into the hotel stopped by to make us a traditional breakfast. It started with Green Tea flavored rice.

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Then there was mushroom soup, potatoes, fu (ya, I had to google it too. Apparently it’s some sort of wheat gluten. I would equate the taste to be similar to soggy bread.), radish, and oranges soggy from being soaked in honey.

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I’m guessing mainly for tourists, but yes, they had rickshaws.

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Akari zaka – “The light slope”

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Kuragari zaka – “The dark slope”

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I had to do a little bit of research to understand the significance of these two staircases. This led me to this blog which shed some light:

“If there is something special, I think that should be the narrow sloping streets, Kuragari zaka (暗がり坂) and Akari zaka (あかり坂), that might remind you of geisha’s daily life in this area.

Kuragari zaka (暗がり坂), which means the path in the dark, is a short, narrow slope around the shrine “久保市乙剣宮”.

It’s said that the famous writer in Kanazawa usually went to school via this slope.

As for Akari zaka (あかり坂, 明かり坂), it has an opposite meaning of Kuragari zaka that means the path in the light.

This narrow street was originally nameless but named by the writer Itsuki hiroyuki in his novel.

These narrow streets were the paths for geisha in the past that indicate the social status of geisha.”

 

 

Higashi Chaya

While walking a neighboring street which is famous in Kanazawa, Higashi Chaya, we even saw a newly wed couple dressed in traditional clothes. I’m sure they will live happy to know that they will forever be immortalized on this blog. Nevertheless, it was fun seeing the clothes and how they dress.

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